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NEWBORNS KIDS |
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Raising the KidsIt is important that the kid goat receive colostrum (the first milk) as soon as possible after birth and for at least 2 days. Colostrum provides antibodies for resistance to disease and is high in nutrients, including energy, vitamin A, the B vitamins, protein, and minerals. Overfeeding colostrum or other milk can cause scours. Extra colostrum can be saved by freezing and fed at body temperature at some later date. Orphan kids may be left on goat's milk or changed to cow's milk or a commercial milk replacer after the first days on colostrum. Kids must have a warm, dry place to sleep if they are taken from their mothers. A deep wooden box with a slanted floor is raised off the ground to provide drainage makes a good bed for new kids. The box should be well-bedded and draft-free. For the first 3 to 4 days after birth, a kid should receive 2 to 3 pints of milk in three to four feedings per day. Kids can be fed twice per day thereafter. A creep feed containing approximately 20 percent CP and a high-quality hay should be made available to kids at about 2 weeks of age. Keep clean, fresh water and salt available at all times, especially when the kids are weaned from milk at 8 to 12 weeks of age. As soon as the kid begins eating a little grain and hay, the rumen will begin to develop, allowing the kid to use roughage materials. The kid will begin chewing its cud at this time. When the kid is eating hay and grain well, usually at about 4 to 6 weeks of age, you can discontinue milk feeding. The rumen will be fully developed at approximately 8 weeks of age. The kid should have plenty of exercise and as much sunshine as possible. Provide boxes or barrels for older kids to have something on which to climb and jump. Separate the buck kids from the does at about 2 to 4 months of age to avoid premature breeding.
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CARE OF A NEWBORN: As soon as they are born, dip their navel cord in 7% Iodine. Open the teats on the Mother. Many times they are clogged, and as hard as the baby tries to nurse, no milk will come...therefore always make sure a steady good stream is coming from her teats. Make SURE the babies are up and nursing within 30 or 40 minutes after being born. They must have 10 to 15% of their body weight in colostrum (first Mothers milk) in the first 24 hours of life...better to get that in the first 12 hours of life...If they do not get this "life saving " colostrum their chances of survival are slim...and even if they don't die, they will not have a good immune system, and will not be a healthy animal as a rule. The
doe will need to be fed MORE while her babies are nursing. ALWAYS leave babies
on Mothers till 3 months old . If you pull them before then, you will
not have the good weight and growth you should have. If I keep a doe
baby, I never take her from her Mother. Mom will kick her off when she’s
ready. Longer than three months nursing, can only do her good. If you take
them away too soon not only will it stress the babies, but also the Mother. Anytime goats are stressed, it opens them up to all sorts of
"sickness".. ESSENTIALS YOU MUST HAVE ON HAND
( if breeding and raising )
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Kick start for weak newborn: Karo syrup in 2 pints of water, or give black coffee. These should be followed up with colostrum which every newborn requires. Recipe for Colostrum Replacement: 3 cups whole milk Freeze your colostrum in ice cube trays & put into a plastic freezer bag. This way you can thaw a cube at a time for a kid that should need it, and keep from wasting a very valuable resource. |
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12 weeks for first round of shots.
Author: Coni Ross |
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Repositioning babies A little trick's I learned to help
reposition babies and to avoid a C |
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BOTTLE BABIES |
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| Suggested feeding instructions | |||
| Age | Amount per feeding | Gradually change to | Number of feedings per day |
| 1-2 days | 1/2 cup | 3/4 cup | 4 |
| 3-7 days | 1 cup | 1 1/4 cup | 3 |
| 1-2 weeks | 1 1/2 cup | 1 3/4 cup | 3 |
| 2-6 weeks | 2 cups | 2 1/2 cups | 2 |
| 6-8 weeks | 2 1/2 cups | 0 * | 2 |
Do not feed them as much as they want to eat follow the schedule, Unless you want to kill them. |
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Bottle Babies Give each kid: 2cc SQ CD Antitoxin 3cc SQ of Poly Serum. You may combined the two in one syringe. Give them this every 2 weeks until they reach the age of 12 weeks when their immune system is developed and you can vaccinate them. This will certainly boost their immune system and also will help with e-coli, cocci... Suggestion: 1 scoop of Loveland's Calf Pac or any Probios in each bottle once a day...This has 5 live organisms and is for their rumen...This should cut down on a lot of problems you might encounter bottle feeding...This will prevent many things, including bloat in most cases. When mixing milk replacer keep it consist changes will upset stomach and then the problems start. |
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Recipes for Milk Replacer |
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Recipe #1 for Milk Replacer
Pour off 2 1/2 cups of the whole milk and add 1 cup whole buttermilk and one 12 oz can of evaporated milk to the whole milk. Mix well. |
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Recipe #2 for Milk Replacer
1/4 cup whipping cream, I use that, and egg has every amino acid, every fatty acid, every vitamin and iron, the only thing it lacks is Vitamin C. It is highly digestible, and kids raised on this do not look like bottle kids, they are as large as other dam raised kids their age, and do not have a big belly. My cost for feeding my one doe kid is give or take a few cents: $1.60 per gallon. Author: Coni Ross |
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GOAT MILK FORMULA
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Powdered kid milk replacer:
Be very careful to mix the appropriate amount with water for feeding, as an improper mix can cause diarrhea. If you continue to have a problem with diarrhea and you've eliminated other causes look once again to the kid milk replacer. You might want to try using whole cows milk, or a mix of the two. You may want to cut back on the amount of milk you are feeding, and supplement with hay/alfalfa to compensate for the reduction of milk. Keep a very close eye on the condition of your kids at all times while experimenting with feed levels. Also, there has been a recall on Manna Pro products Spring 2007. Many young kids have become ill from use of the kid milk replacer. If you are using this product and having a problem with the health of your kids, stop using it immediately. If kid milk replacer is a grayish color & the smell is off, do not ever use it to feed your kids. I have found DuMor to be a very good product for kid milk replacer. |
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COLOSTRUM AND GOAT MILK -- STORING FOR EMERGENCY USE An important part of preparing for kidding is to have real colostrum and real goat milk on hand for emergencies. The doe who gives birth but has no milk, the dam who develops mastitis, the mother who dies and leaves orphans, the sick mom who can't nurse her kids, the dam whose teat orifice is too small for good milk flow, the doe who is unable to raise three or more kids . . . each of these situations is easier to handle if the producer has previously collected and frozen colostrum and goat milk for emergency use. There are commercial substitutes for both colostrum and goat milk. However, real colostrum and goat milk contain antibodies specific to the producer's location that are critical to newborns' continuing health. Goat kids are not born with independently-functioning immune systems but rather operate off their dams' immunities for the first several months of life. If the producer must use commercial substitutes, avoid soy-based products. Obtain a new or used chest or upright freezer and designate it as colostrum and goat milk storage. Collect empty 16 - 20 ounce plastic soda-water bottles with screw-on caps. Remove the labels, clean and dry them thoroughly, and store them for future use. Obtain stick-on labels for identification of the contents. Buy a funnel that fits the top of the bottles. Have on hand a stove-top pot with an elevated rack placed inside, a hot plate or stove, a counter, and running water. Save wide-mouthed jars into which to milk colostrum and goat milk. Buy screw-on Prichard teats that fit the plastic bottles. Automatic-defrost freezers speed up degradation of frozen colostrum and goat milk because they take moisture out of the air and therefore out of the frozen product. Plastic bottles protect frozen contents better than zip-lock bags or ice-cube trays. When a doe has more colostrum or goat milk than her kids require, clean her teats with an alcohol prep pad and milk into a wide-mouthed jar. Write the following on the stick-on label and apply it to the plastic bottle before you funnel the contents inside: "First-Day Colostrum," "Second-Day Colostrum," or "Goat Milk," the date collected, and the dam's name and ear tag number. Fill the plastic bottle half full, allowing for expansion when frozen, and screw the cap onto the bottle. Store the filled bottle upright in the freezer. A larger bottle can be used to freeze goat milk, but colostrum needs to be stored in one-feeding quantities. Once thawed, it is of questionable value re-frozen. This writer has successfully used both colostrum and goat milk that has been frozen for more than two years. Use oldest dated bottles first. Thawing colostrum is a delicate task. Seldom does the producer have time to refrigerator or counter thaw. Place the raised rack in the bottom of the stove-top pot and fill it with water; loosen the screw-on cap and submerge all but the top of the frozen bottle of colostrum. Begin to thaw over medium heat, reducing heat to low temperature as thawing proceeds. Shake and turn the bottle frequently to prevent scorching or clotting. Colostrum should not be thawed or warmed in a microwave; it turns gummy. Goat milk can be thawed in a microwave, using several-second bursts of energy and can also be heated in a microwave without destroying its immunological and nutritional values. However, do not over-heat milk. Test the heat of the colostrum or milk on the inside of your bare wrist before feeding it to kids. Do not try to re-use plastic bottles in which colostrum or goat milk has been frozen. Colostrum especially leaves residue in the bottom of the bottle that can attract bacteria. Keeping a frozen supply of colostrum and goat milk that is specific to your ranch for use with stressed newborns is a sound management practice. The author, Suzanne Gasparotto, hereby grants to local goat publications and club newsletters, permission to reprint articles published on the Onion Creek Ranch website under these conditions: THE ARTICLE MUST BE REPRODUCED IN ITS ENTIRETY AND THE AUTHOR'S NAME, ADDRESS, AND CONTACT INFORMATION MUST BE INCLUDED AT THE BEGINNING OF THE REPRINT. Acknowledgement must also be made that the articles were first published in GOAT RANCHER Magazine, for which Suzanne Gasparotto writes exclusively. |
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Bottle Babies with Rattle in Chest: Author: Kathryn Davis |
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If you have
a bottle
baby
you need to vaccinate at 3,6,12, and 16 weeks, then once a year they get the
booster. ( always 2 ccs ) ALSO VERY IMPORTANT ON BOTTLE BABIES to deworm every 3 weeks. Also you must treat 5 straight days with Albon ( 1cc per 10 lbs ) double dose the first day. This must be done at 3 weeks, and again at 6 weeks. You can put the liquid Albon and wormer straight in their bottles.....Babies are VERY prone to coccicidiosis (an internal parasite ) and worms. CL Vaccinations: Case Bac CL vaccination to be given ONLY as a preventative to be given EVERY 6 MONTHS. Autogenous CL vaccine. Given once a yr. This vaccine can be given to a positive goat, and it will suppress any future abscesses. This vaccine can also be given to a negative goat as a preventative. The Autogenous vaccine is given once a year. Both CL vaccines need a booster three weeks after the original (always 2 ccs ). Safe to give a PG doe. If given 3 weeks before kidding, babies will be protected till 12 weeks old through their Mothers colostrum. Then they are old enough to get their first CL vaccination followed in three weeks by the booster. Author: Unknown |
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KEEPING KIDS WARM:
We use 40 watt, with the metal reflector. Right now it is 29
degrees Outside, and the 40 watt adds enough warmth to keep them
just fine. |
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baby who has a lump on his throat
It looks like he's got a huge
Adams apple. It's fairly soft, Try spraying that kid's tail web with iodine.
There is a 'milk goiter' in kids that get a lot of milk, and grow very fast. The
thyroid needs more iodine, and enlarges temporarily. The iodine sprayed on the
tail does not sting, and the kid will absorb it very fast, even the hair will be
white
again the next day. |
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KIDDING
SUPPLIES Goat Serum Concentrate: The medical breakthrough of the century! Now you can protect your kids from the leading causes of newborn disease and death. Newborns depend on antibodies shortly after birth to build their immune system. A number of common conditions result in little or no immune build-up, leaving newborns susceptible to pneumonia, scours, and high mortality rates. Be assured that your kids will have maximum growth and long, healthy productive lives. Also effective as a treatment for infections in adult goats such as mastitis and shipping fever complex. "It's like a miracle!" Very economical to use ($3.37 per dose). One bottle provides 8 treatments. Frozen colostrum is preferred, as colostrum replacer is not sufficient. Colostrum Powder: Supply your growing kids with beneficial micro flora for intestinal flora as well as immune building antibodies, protein, vitamins A, D, E, B12 and lots of trace minerals. Add a teaspoon of this wonderful colostrum powder to every bottle of milk replacer or milk you feed your baby goats for as long as they are nursing. You can’t go wrong. Dose scoop included. Labeled for goats. 9 oz. Jar (75 portions).
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KIDS |
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Grafting kids What I have always done and I have had a 100% success rate at doing this is one of two ways depending on what has accrued. 1) If the doe just kidded and she only had one. I take the afterbirth and rub it all over the kid I want to graft. If you are there when she is kidding you can catch the clear fluid from the birth and smear that also on the graft kid. Once she has kidded and I check to make sure that is the only kid she is having then I take her kid to another kidding pen where I have the graft kid that I have already smeared with her afterbirth or fluid. The doe will follow you crying for her kid to the new pen where she now has two kids to clean. She is confused because you moved her and is only concerned about being with her kids now and will clean and talk to both as well let both nurse. 2) If the doe has kidded and you have no afterbirth to smear on the kid then I milk the doe about a half of a coke bottle and smear it on the graft kids face, body and rear as well as on her own kid. The I move her kid to another kidding pen and she will then follow concerned about her kid and will except both because she smells the milk on both kids. This is how I have always done it and have always had them take them. Author: Karen Venglar |
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Grafting a Kid: Alternative to bottle feeding There are several situations that call for grafting a kid: multiple birth when the doe is not going to be able to rear all of the kids, death of a doe, and a doe who’s kid has died, and needs a kid to raise. There are several methods which work: Graft a kid to a doe that is kidding: Put the kid in the stall with the doe after she has the first kid. Make sure you do not let her see you do it. Smear the kid with the birth fluids. Make sure the kid fills up on the doe’s colostrum so that the scent comes through. Keep them penned together for at least 2-3 days to be sure bonding and recognition has taken place. Take the yellow colostrum feces from the natural kid on day two, or as soon as you see it, and smear it on the head, back bottom under the tail, and belly of the graftee. The graftee may have a confusing scent from its dam’s colostrum. The maternal instinct is very strong at this time. Graft a kid to a doe who has lost her kid: skin the dead kid. Leave the tail on, and the genital area. Cut off legs, and put the adoptive kids legs through the holes, make sure the kid fills up on the doe’s colostrum. It may be necessary to blind fold the doe until the colostrum comes through the digestive tract, if her own kid was several days old. If there was colostrum feces on the tail of the dead kid, use it to help with the bonding. I have also used a dark room. If that doe has no other company, she can not hear or see another goat or animal, and you put the kid (let it nurse until it looks like it will pop so the colostrum will come through faster) with the doe in the dark room. The room needs to be at least 95-99% dark. Put feed hay and water close to the door, and leave a small crack so the doe can see the water and feed. Leave them alone. Make sure the kid has nursed again before dark. I have had does take a kid overnight like this. There are goat eating monsters in the dark, and not only is that kid her only company ( goats are herd animals) but the maternal instinct is most stimulated when she must concentrate on the sounds, and scents of that kid. I have also let the Border collie peek through the door, so that the doe feels the kid is threatened. It speeds the acceptance process. The longest I have ever had this take is 48 hours. Author: Coni Ross |
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You can pop those ears out if you want. I roll the tip of the ear over my index finger, pulling out the adhesion. Put ointment on it. It will heal, and her ears will be as they are supposed to be.
Author: Cynthia Ellis |
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To get cold kids to nurse/mothering: I tie the doe to the side of a panel, so that she has to cooperate. Then I get each kid, and on my knees, back the kid's rear up to my knees, bend it's knees, and open it's mouth with my left forefinger, and put the nipple in it's mouth, then milk the doe's milk into it 's mouth. It would help to 'tickle' it's tail, as this stimulates the suck reflex. Even if the kid won't suck, you can milk enough into it's mouth to get some colostrum in there. Sometimes cold kids 'dummy', and just don't have the will to live. 3-5cc of 50% dextrose will usually get one going enough to wake up and try to nurse. Be sure the orifice of the teat is open before you start all of this. Any doe that walks away from her kids needs to be culled. Mothering is inherited. This year, I have had several cases of kid theft, and had to stall the actual mother with her kids to reestablish scent. I had an old doe in labor, who whipped the young doe off, stole her kids (already tagged, dry, nursed), then proceeded to have twins of her own. The young doe had already given up . I stalled them, made sure the kids nursed, and the doe decided by morning that they were hers. I normally kid them in the pasture, where this would not happen, but the unseasonably cold weather made it imperative to put them in a 5 acre trap with a barn. Normally it isn't this cold in December, we have had January, February type weather. Author: Coni Ross |
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Tube feeding a weak / failing kid:
If you are at risk of losing a kid that is down, cold, and will not suckle, you must take action or you will lose it. Your choices are few. You will need a weak kid or save-a-kid syringe. They run about $5.00 for the tube and syringe, and well worth the money! The esophagus is on the left side of the throat, so you would feed the tube in through the right side of the mouth toward the left side of the throat and down to the stomach. You can measure the tube along the side of the kids body and mark the tube to be sure of when it reaches the stomach. Tube feeding instructions can be found in a Premier catalog (800) 282-6631 Do not feed a kid that's too chilled to raise it's head, as this could send the animal into shock. First warm it up, and once it's warm, then tube it. Never use dirty tubes or syringes, and be sure to have extra tubes in case one wears out unexpectedly. Feed through the tube slowly until you've gotten 25-40 cc's of warm colostrum into the stomach. It is Very important that a kid receives colostrum as it's first meal as it provides antibodies that the animal needs, and it activates the proper balance of naturally occurring microorganisms in the stomach. Author: Unknown |
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How to tube feed a kid goat Goat kids are fun to raise, but like any animal they do sometimes get sick. When a young kid is too sick to nurse or suck a bottle, sometimes you have to feed him through a feeding tube that is put directly in their stomach. Sometimes they are found just to weak to swallow, and need warm fluids to revive them. Tubing a kid if done correctly is preferable to using a syringe to squirt the liquid in their mouths. This keeps the kids from aspirating any medication or milk, which could lead to pneumonia or death. Aspirate means to inhale into the lungs. Without intervention a kid that is too weak to nurse will not survive long. There are several different diseases and conditions that can cause a kid goat not to be able to nurse. The first is finding a newborn that has been chilled, or gotten to cold before it could be dried off and nurse. This is an emergency situation and steps must be taken immediately to warm the kid and prevent death. E. Coli is a disease that causes severe diarrhea and dehydration. Goat kids are also susceptible to Coccidia, and other parasites. Sometimes kids have oxygen deprivation due to dystocia, which is misrepresentation at birth. These kids need to be tube fed to provide essential nutrients until the kid has time to heal. Thiamin deficiency polio, Enterotoxemia, and Floppy kid also leave a kid unable to nurse. First step is to gather your supplies. Decide what you need to tube your goat with. Does the kid need Colostrum? Electrolytes, B Vitamins, Probiotics, goat milk or milk replacer can also be used. For a newborn kid, I would not suggest giving more than 2-4 ounces of any fluid at one time. An older kid you can give 4 - 6 ounces of fluids at a time, depending on his size. You will need a feeding tube and 60cc syringe with an irrigation tip. These can be obtained from the vet or anywhere they sell veterinarian supplies. The tube enables you to put the fluids directly into the kid's rumen. The Syringe is used to hold the fluid before it travels down the tube. You will also need a cup of clean warm water, and a small syringe 3 cc or 12 cc work fine. Finally you will need a bowl or something to clean your equipment up in, disinfectant, and hot water. The first step, after assembling your supplies is to measure how far you need to insert the tube. Measure from the kid's nose, to the center of the ear, and back down to the chest floor. Mark the tube at this point. This is the maximum depth you need to insert the tube. Hold the kid securely, and dip the end of the tube in water to soften it. Insert the tube from the center of the kid's mouth, over the tongue, and down the throat till you reach the mark. You should be able to feel the tube pass down the esophagus. You can feel it down the side of the trachea or windpipe. The kid should be still able to cry with the tube inserted. If the kid is awake and crying, and suddenly stops while you are inserting the tube, withdraw the tube until it can cry and try again. It is very important that you get the tube in the correct spot. If you pour fluids in the kid's lungs, he will die. There are several different ways you can make sure the tube is in the right spot. Smell the end of the tube; you should smell stomach smells - like old milk. Remember a newborn is not ruminating so you will not smell rumen smells. Listen at the end of the tube; you should her little crackles, not breath sounds. If you hear breath sounds withdraw the tube. Another way to make sure is to stick the end of the tube into a cup of water. If it blows bubbles you are in the lungs. A similar check is to blow lightly into the tube. Watch the kids and make sure the lungs don't inflate when you blow. Before you add the syringe. Pour 3-5 cc of water in the tube. A small 3 cc or 12 cc syringe works well for this. If the tube is in the trachea the kid should cough. If it is in the esophagus he should still be able to cry. But, be extremely careful if the kid is completely flat or comatose. A comatose kid can not swallow, cry or may not even cough. His reflexes are not working. Rely on checking for breath sounds and bubbles. If the kid is comatose he needs to be revived quickly, such as the case of a chilled down kid. Time is an important factor, if you don't get warm fluids and sugars into the kid quickly he will die. Attach the syringe to the end of the tube. I like to just use the outside of the syringe and let gravity push the fluids into the kid's rumen. This prevents you from pushing the fluids in too fast. When you have completed your checks and are sure that the tube is in the correct place, add 5cc of water in the syringe. The water should flow freely down the tube. If not withdraw the tube about a 2" and push it back in. The tube may be against the wall of the stomach or kinked. If the water flows down the tube without resistance, slowly add 2 -3 ounces of fluid into the syringe. Let gravity push the fluid down the tube, hold the syringe up above the kid's head. This is easier done with two people until you get accustomed to the procedure. After all the fluids have flowed out of the syringe, add 10 cc water to rinse the syringe. This prevents any medications or milk from accidentally being aspirated by the kid when the tube is being removed. A kid can survive if he aspirates a little water it will be absorbed by the lungs. Milk in the lungs is likely to cause pneumonia. Remove the syringe from the end of the tube. If you cover the end of the tube while it is being removed it will keep any fluid left in the tube from leaking out and being aspirated. Just like if you hold your thumb over a straw and remove it from your soda. The soda stays in the straw. Remove the tube slowly, don't pull it out fast or jerk it. This can damage the soft tissues. Place the kid down on his brisket, sitting up, never laying on its side. If the kid is flat, from floppy kid, or is comatose from being cold, roll a towel or rag up to prop his head on. This way if they cough up any fluids, they will not aspirate any into their lungs. Gather all your supplies immediately place the tube and syringe in a bowl of soapy hot water, we use a disinfectant such as Nolvason or Betadine. Clean all equipment and rinse well. We wash all of our tubing equipment in a stainless steal bowl, then pour boiling water on it to help sterilize it. Be careful not to burn yourself. Newborn kids need to be fed every 2 - 4 hours. Especially if they are sick. Frequent small amounts of nutritious fluids are preferred over large amounts more infrequently. This is especially for kids that are sick. Author: Robin L. Walters |
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kid with fever and a limp I would suspect joint ill. Joint ill can occur soon after birth from infection arising in the umbilical cord, or later from a cut or scratch that you may not even see. Check the leg the goat is limping on: is it swollen at one or more joints? Check other joints, and is there swelling or tenderness? If so, then it is likely joint ill. Joint ill needs to be treated aggressively, or the animal
will be permanently crippled, stunted, and die.. I have saved kids with joint
ill by treating aggressively with very high doses of The issue here is to treat the disease, or loose the kid . Sometimes you loose them anyway, the pus gets into the pericardium of the heart, in the peritoneum, and in all the joints. Author: Coni Ross |
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kids with belly, not growing: First, I would worm them. Be sure to use enough wormer to do the job. Second, I would calf pac them, and make sure you have a feed with Rumensin. Sometimes kids have sub-clinical Coccidiosis, which will interfere with absorption and growth. Coccidiosis will damage the lining of the gut, and will decrease feed efficiency. If the kids are young, and not getting enough milk, a cup per 50 lbs of feed can be added to the creep feed in the feeder. pot bellied kids: If you are bottling the kids, hold the bottle up high, so that the milk goes down the esophageal groove, That helps absorption. Second, make sure your milk replacer has Milk as the first ingredient. Measure milk powder separate from water. If you are feeding kids creep feed, you can add 1 cup of nonfat dry milk (generic will do) from the grocery store. I also use Calf Pac in the feed, and in the milk. Pot belly means the kids are not getting enough protein. I would put a Rumensin block in with them, unless you have Rumensin in the feed. The Sweetlix Meat Maker Mineral with Rumensin is good too. Author: Coni Ross |
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Water feeding via nipples warning: Dr. Freeman stated that she has seen many cases of "osmotic hemolysis" (rupture of the red blood cells due to water intake) in young ruminants (esp. sheep) who are fed water via a bottle or other nipple device such as a lambar. Reportedly, the critter confuses the water with milk and drinks too much water for it's system. Ruminant systems are not designed to suck in large amounts of water at one time. I was told that when a goat drinks water from a bucket or even from a drench, it does not take in the same quantities at a time as it will when sucking on a nipple. Dr. Freeman states that water should never be given via a bottle or lambar to a ruminant who has been fed milk the same way. Within one day of stopping the water via a bottle, my doe stopped passing red urine. Fortunately, the anemia that I had caused her to suffer also cleared up in time and there was no permanent damage. I hope this helps prevent others from making the same mistake that I made. Andy Author: Andy Highland |
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We have a doe kid with swollen knees, they are crusty and "smell sick". She tends to walk stiff legged and when she stands she won't put one down at all. She's being bottle fed and it appears that another bottle baby is starting to develop the same symptoms. We applied a spray on antibiotic and wrapped it up. She seemed to walk better with the wrapping applied. Any one have an idea as to what it might be and how we might stop it? You might consider treating them for Mycoplasma bacteria by giving them Biomycin (or LA 200) injections according to weight. Author: Doug and
Vicky Inich |
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For use
as an aid in the prevention and treatment of conditions
such as pneumonia and enterotoxemia, passive immune
failure in newborns and shipping fever complex. Especially
helpful for weak newborns. |
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Care and Bottle Feeding of Newborns:
If the mother had no milk or if the babies were not able to get colostrum from the mother, I highly recommend giving them Colostrix or any other colostrum substitute. (These substitutes are all labeled for calves, but that's fine. They work great. You don’t have to mix up the entire package. What I have is manufactured by CANPAC in New Zealand and distributed by Schering-Plough. I try to keep a bag on hand “just in case.” The bag I’m reading from has an expiration date of 11/14/05; in October or early November, if I haven’t needed it, I will mix it up and feed it to the dogs and buy a new bag. I consider this “insurance.”) Some people tube-feed the babies; we have never done that so I wouldn't have any clue how to tell someone to do it. If the baby takes to the bottle, you can/should give approximately 2 oz. every 2 hours - if they will take that much. But it is extremely important they have colostrum or colostrum substitute for the first 24 hours!!
Normally if the baby won’t suck on a
bottle, I put a little
Karo syrup
on my little finger and try to get it to
suck on that (after I first make sure the baby has colostrum – normally with
a syringe 6 cc at a time).
We normally start off with 2 hour feedings
of no more than 2 oz. We gradually increase both the amount of milk and the
amount of time between bottles to be at 6 oz. every 4 hours by the end of
the first week. After the first week we gradually increase to 8 oz. 3 times
a day and stay at that 3 feedings a day for a couple weeks - gradually
increasing the amount at each feeding to 16 oz. At 16 oz. we then go to two
feedings a day - and usually have them drinking 20 oz. Ideally you will have a goat you can milk to provide milk for the babies. But since we seldom live in an ideal world, you are probably going to have to either use a store-bought formula (Purina makes a goat milk replacer) or use the milk /buttermilk / evaporated milk recipe. If you use a milk replacer, mix it exactly according to directions; smarter people than you or I came up with the portions. And do not use a milk replacer that has soy in it; soy tends to give the babies diarrhea. Whichever you use (and I would recommend the milk/buttermilk/evaporated milk recipe only because it's so easy to mix and the measuring doesn't have to be exact), don't change abruptly. We have found we get a better grow-out rate and healthier bottle babies when we add Goat Nutri-drench to the first bottle of the day. Change in a goat's diet almost always is going to make them sick (at least our goats).
We do not heat our milk for bottle babies
after the first several days. (Newborns need body-temperature milk to keep
their own body temperature up.) Somebody once told us if you feed cold
milk they don't gulp it as fast and don't end up with as many upset
tummies. It does take a little longer to give the bottle if the milk is
cold because they do stop more often. But, mother goats don't let their
babies nurse continuously - they walk away after about 7 seconds (yes,
I've timed them ). This is why we recommend starting the babies off with a
little milk frequently rather than a lot of milk less often.
About every two weeks you need to give the
babies a
probiotic. We prefer
Probios
- a blue gel in a tube we can buy at either Tractor Supply or our Co-Op.
(The cost is considerably less at the Co-op!!) Some people use a product
called Calf Pac by Loveland and swear by it, but we cannot get this item
locally. The
Probios
keeps the rumen functioning properly. If you can't find either
Calf Pac or Probios, try
feeding about a tablespoon full of plain cultured yogurt...serves the same
purpose. If the babies did not get the mother's colostrum (or if the mother was not vaccinated with CD/T or Covexin 8 or a similar product prior to the birth), I highly recommend giving the babies CD Antitoxin at birth (or close to it). The first two doses, six weeks apart, can be given orally. The bottle we have recommends giving the Antitoxin (not to be confused with CD/T) at birth and at six weeks. At 12 weeks you can then give CD/T or Covexin 8. At birth we always give our babies a squirt of Nutra-Drench or Goat Aid any time they seem lethargic I would recommend this. Personally I keep the babies in the laundry room for the first two weeks - especially if the weather is bad. I do this for my convenience - not necessarily because it's good for the babies. I do take them outside to play in the grass when possible. After two weeks, depending on the weather, I have them spending their days at the barn around the other goats. We have an area only babies can get into, and that's where we put them. If they wander out, they know where a "safe" place is for them to hide from the big bully goats. If they are around other goats they learn (1) they are goats, (2) grass tastes pretty good, (3) hay is tasty too, and (4) hey, those little pellet are for eating! (The babies will start eating grain faster if they are around other goats/babies eating grain.) Mainly, though, you want the goats to learn they are goats and not dogs or cats or other house pets. When in the laundry room we keep babies in boxes until they figure out how to get out at which point they move into dog crates; at no time do we allow the babies the run of the house. I would keep them out of a drafty area if possible. During the winter if you elect to keep them at the barn, put them underneath a 250 watt light (depending on what your weather is like where you are). You want their immediate area to stay above 50 degrees. You do not want them to be using their energy/calories shivering and trying to stay warm, but you don't want to bake them either. Hopefully you won't run into any problems with the babies and they will grow up big and strong. You will want to watch carefully for diarrhea because you don't want them dehydrated. (I'm a firm believer in Pepto Bismol for diarrhea - mixed with a little Biosol.) You will also want to make sure they get their shots on time because their immune systems are probably already a little compromised. Author: Clear Creek Farms |
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The most frequent cause of
death in kids less than 3 days old is Enterotoxemia type C.
This sounds like what the kid died of to me. What works for me: For a
newborn: 3cc oral
penicillin, 5cc Penicillin SQ, 5cc SQ of CD antitoxin, 15cc
Pepto Bismol, Banamine
per body weight: 1cc/100lbs. Repeat the Pepto,
in 3 hours. Repeat SQ penicillin,
and SQ CD antitoxin
the next day. Author: Coni Ross |
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Make sure you separate the bucklings at 3 months. They are capable of breeding at three months, and you
sure don't want that buckling breeding his Momma or siblings. Author: Cynthia Ellis Florida Cracker Boer Goats |
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